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10 Quick Photoshop tips

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1. Easier marquee selections Hold down Alt to start a selection at the centre point with any Marquee tool, and then hold Space to temporarily move the selection around. 2. Undo, undo, undo You probably know that Cmd/Ctrl+Z is Undo, but you may not know Cmd/Ctrl+Alt+Z lets you undo more than one history state. 3. 1000 history states Go to Edit>Preferences>Performance to change the number of History states up to a maximum of 1000. Beware though of the effect that this has on performance. 4. Cycle blend modes Shift + or – will cycle through different layer Blend Modes, so long as you don’t have a tool that uses Blend Mode options settings. 5. Rotating patterns You can make amazing kaleidoscopic patterns with the help of a keyboard shortcut. Cmd/Ctrl+Shift+Alt+T lets you duplicate a layer and repeat a transformation in one go. To demonstrate, we’ve made a narrow glowing shape by squeezing a lens flare effect, but you can use any shape, image or effect you like. First, make

CONCLUSION

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Finally! We are now ready to take this wonderful work of ART and put it out on social media for all to see and envy! What should we do? What settings? sRGB? ProPhoto? Adobe???? ARGH! This is simple! Since the vast majority of displays out today are sRGB capable, your best bet and recommended choice would be JPEG and sRGB. sRGB will assure you that it looks very much the same over a large amount of different displays. Personally, when I have tested this exporting bright, vibrant and saturated colors, there tends to be a little fall off from the displayed image in Lightroom. It is very slight and remember, you’re going from a HUGE color space to a much smaller one. I have also exported as ProPhoto and, to me, it looks exactly as it did in Lightroom. I use an iMac 5k, and an iPhone 7 – maybe they display the colors nicely!! To be honest, it looks better to me exported as ProPhoto and that is against what most say you should be doing (exporting to sRGB is the norm). If you chose to

EXPORTING OUT TO FILE OR PRINT

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Finally! We are now ready to take this wonderful work of ART and put it out on social media for all to see and envy! What should we do? What settings? sRGB? ProPhoto? Adobe? ARGH! This is simple! Since the vast majority of displays out today are sRGB capable, your best bet and recommended choice would be JPEG and sRGB. sRGB will assure you that it looks very much the same over a large amount of different displays. Personally, when I have tested this exporting bright, vibrant and saturated colors, there tends to be a little fall off from the displayed image in Lightroom. It is very slight and remember, you're going from a HUGE color space to a much smaller one. I have also exported as ProPhoto and, to me, it looks exactly as it did in Lightroom. I use an iMac 5k, and an iPhone 7 – maybe they display the colors nicely!! To be honest, it looks better to me exported as ProPhoto and that is against what most say you should be doing (exporting to sRGB is the norm). If you

SAMPLE WORKFLOW

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I will now take a Photograph from my Lightroom Library that has had basic edits applied and bring it into Photoshop for a text layer, an added half moon and then back to Lightroom. This is a simple image of a nice sky with silouetted trees in the foreground. We will add “Summer 2016” beneath the Sunset in dark area of the image and a moon somewhere in the sky. JUST SOME QUICK TEXT AT THE BOTTOM TO COMPLETE THIS FILE. By hitting CMD (Or CTRL on PC) & E, the current file will be sent directly to Photoshop. When working with RAW files, all your edits in Lightroom will be visible in Photoshop. When editing NON RAW files, Lightroom will ask if you want to Edit the Original File or a Copy of the Original. This is important because sometimes we want to go back into Photoshop even after coming back to Lightroom. At that point, it would be a TIFF file (according to our settings). ONE IMPORTANT thing to remember when saving your files back to Lightroom is to always CLOSE THE FILE in P

PHOTOSHOP COLOR SETTINGS

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After making the RAW file edits in Lightroom, we select from the PHOTO menu option “EDIT IN > Photoshop CC ### (Current Version)” or simply hit CMD or CTRL E to send the file to Photoshop. Now once here, it is imperative that we have Photoshop set up to accept the file into the working area with the proper settings. They are as follows: For the Working SPACES, under RGB, set it to ProPhoto RGB. You can leave CMYK set to this setting – we are not concerned with this right now (You may want to contact your commercial Printer to ask which setting they recommend). GRAY can be set to 1.8 because this is what has been recommended as the best option when working with ProPhoto RGB. Sean Bagshaw is a top photographer who recommends this in his training series dealing with Luminosity Masking. Color Management Policies can be set as such but it is personal preference if you are asked when Opening or Pasting. Under Conversion Options Engine set to Adobe (ACE) is to be left this way.

Primary External Editor Settings in Photoshop

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For the file format, you will have two choices: TIFF (Tag Image File Format) or PSD (Photoshop Document). This seems like a no brainer since we are working with two Adobe Products and Photoshop happens to be one of the Applications we are working with. Logic says to use PSD, right? Logic be damned! Adobe Engineers themselves have suggested, along with other leaders in the industry, that the best file type to use is the TIFF file format. When you choose PSD, you are warned how PSD files can be less efficient than TIFF files with respect to metadata updates. Also, make sure “Maximize Compatibility” checkbox is clicked on. But why bother with all of this?!? Save yourself the headaches and use the TIFF file format. All of your layers will be saved and in tact for further processing down the road. source: internet If u need a free photoshop alternative that give you a productive solution,  photoshop online  will be a great option. Web:  http://photoshopalternative.com

Color Space in photoshop

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When you import a RAW file into Lightroom’s catalog (And you should be shooting RAW!), there isn’t any option for you to choose which color space you will be working in. When we edit RAW image data in Lightroom’s Develop module, the software is working in a color space very close to ProPhoto RGB. It is a variation which is called Melissa RGB and the technical differences or similarities between the two are outside the scope of this article. Simply put, Lightroom is working in the ProPhoto RGB color space for all we are concerned – the widest color space available. Widest simply means the most colors. And in this case, we are talking MILLIONS AND MILLIONS AND MILLIONS! In fact, many of these colors are “theoretical” and scientific – the human eye cannot even distiguish many of these colors. That being said, it is very simple and understandable that we want to use ProPhoto RGB as the color space. Why would we not want the most available colors to work with? It is true that the WEB a